Daniele Reponi: “The truth? Every sandwich is a vehicle of culture”

To understand the secrets of the "gourmet sandwich", an innovative and highly appreciated as well as highly fashionable product, you need to get to know and talk to a truly special person.
Daniele Reponi, the chef/non-chef from Modena who invented it, born in 1975, has become the protagonist of cooking shows and events at a national and international level.
Part butcher, part innkeeper, lover of tradition and good taste, he has been able to enhance one of the simplest and most frugal culinary preparations: the sandwich.
In fact, it is the sandwich itself that is the absolute protagonist of its cuisine, in a synthesis of tradition and innovation expressed through the gastronomic excellence of the area.
Guest of the television program "La Prova del Cuoco" by Antonella Clerici with "Italy in a sandwich", Daniele Reponi has always tried to tell what lies behind the authenticity and freshness of Italian products.
It is a fascinating story that, from generation to generation, is preserved and handed down by food artisans.
The combinations and fillings proposed in his sandwiches are undisputed: some more classic, others more innovative and courageous, but still representatives of Italian gastronomic culture.

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When did you decide to dedicate yourself to making sandwiches?
“Despite the fact that I come from the world of taverns and am far from the world of starred restaurants, I tried my hand at this a bit by chance. It all started with a call from Beppe Palmieri, the restaurant manager of the Osteria Francescana. He called me to invite me to work in a delicatessen in the historic center of Modena, a classic food shop. In reality I never thought I would work for him. This place was very small and hosted various culinary excellences (from cheeses to cured meats to pickles) and a single table where you could taste various delicacies. Right here, I started not only to propose espresso sandwiches, that is, made on the spot, but also to talk about them. The story, in fact, allows you to foretaste the product by preparing to taste it. This narration made the tasting moment very dynamic and fun."

Preparing sandwiches is a way to enhance and celebrate the excellence of the area. What does it mean to tell these sandwiches?
“Telling these sandwiches is a way to celebrate local products. Today there is a lot of talk about 'gourmet' sandwiches, a preparation that requires a very elaborate recipe. We, however, started from the opposite side, in fact we talked about the products, the raw materials. The idea was to enhance the neighboring territories, and those of the entire peninsula".

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The sandwich is a winning and effective weapon to protect and defend Made in Italy. Could it be defined as a “vehicle of culture”?
"Absolutely yes. It is a vehicle of culture. It is a simple and informal product, it passes through everyone's hands. In Italy, especially in recent years, it has become a highly sought-after 'trend' product. A way to talk about raw materials. The sandwich, in fact, is the natural home of the cured meat, a global excellence of Italy. It's a way to talk about that product and, then, to tell it to the whole world."

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Where do the pairings come from? Are there any scientific reasons, at a chemical-molecular level?
“There are rules dictated by experience, but also real steps. Balance must reign within a filling: therefore, if I have a fatty element such as burrata or bacon, I look for an acidic element to cleanse the palate. Just as for the balance between sweetness or flavor, for example, I use pumpkin and anchovy. Balance in the fillings is always a good way to proceed. Another way is dictated by the territoriality of the products. Products that originate in the same territory go well together on a culinary level, such as Bolognese mortadella combined with pears (a classic element of Petronian agriculture). Cotechino from Modena pairs perfectly with Lambrusco, as does speck with Trentino apples, or ricotta and raw ham. Territoriality, therefore, is a useful key to structuring tasty combinations. Finally, a final method relies on science. There is a rule, a molecular methodology capable of suggesting combinations. Cauliflower goes well with truffles because they both have the same molecule."

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CHow did you delve into the scientific apparatus behind the products?
“I began to delve into these aspects early in my career, even if they don't represent the best part of my job. Food has an earthy, peasant soul, linked to aromas, touch, tasting: for this reason I prefer more classic and traditional methodologies. I don't like to cook too much because I don't want to take away space for the raw materials. In reality, the world of science is certainly interesting and can suggest particular and new associations. It is an aspect that needs to be explored further without, however, giving up creativity. Like liquorice powder associated with roasted aubergine, since both products contain the molecules and aroma of liquorice."

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Can we make a general reasoning about food as a product?
“Yes, the final product is the result of personal research that starts with individual producers: farmers, breeders, butchers, cheesemakers and so on. All products are excellent products derived from tradition and very accurate and passionate workmanship. Food, therefore, is only the culmination of a very long and in-depth journey with deep roots in the history and culture of the territories..."

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